February 7, 2011

I am Second


I recently read the book, "Save Me From Myself," the Brian 'Head' Welch story. This book is a heavy look into the world of drugs, fame and rock & roll.


Now surfers are far from the hardcore rock and roll image that you see former Korn band member, Head representing. However, the world of fame and drugs is just as tempting for any surfer as it is to rock stars and celebrities. The pressure of performing, been idolised and partying has been an underlying obstacle in the surf scene since the 60’s. Like many celebrities, stardom can take its toll and a common place turn for help is drugs.

After reading Head's story I was moved and compelled to make sure that people know that there is a price that comes with fame. I don't have to name the numerous movie stars, musicians and athletes who have paid the ultimate price as they have been propelled into the scene of drugs and partying. The reason I write is not to condemn, but to inspire. Life is bigger than any drug, bigger than any party, than any trophy or cheque. Life is more valuable then any thing the world has to offer.

I wrote a scripture on my board last year from Mathew 16:26 it reads “What will you gain, if you own the whole world but lose your own soul?”

At the end of the day what we have is life and it is not to be wasted.