The Billabong Pro J-Bay 2010 is over and as the scaffolding is packed down and Jeffrey's Bay goes back to the sleepy surf town it is known as. I sit and reflect on the 4 day roller coaster I have been on here in South Africa.
Billabong's catch phrase, "Only a Surfer Knows the Feeling" has been tagged and marketed globally since I can remember..............
This feeling is what surfers live for. They seek out the feeling of a balance between adrenalin and peace. It is hard to describe this feeling, but it is addictive and contagious.
Surfers grow up seeking out this feeling however the better you surf and the more successful you become as a surfer the harder it is to get that same feeling you had for the first time you surfed across a wave standing up.
Professional surfers seek that one feeling which is to win a world title competition. I remember in Tahiti last year, Bobby Martinez had just won the Billabong Pro Teahupo’o. As he was making his way on to stage at the trophy presentation a surfer I was with turned to me and said, “Bobby is about to have the best feeling in the world.” At that moment I realised, all of what these surfers time and energy is put into is seeking that feeling of achievement. It is a lifelong goal which these guys crave.
It is hard to imagine that there are many professional surfers who compete on the world tour who all desire that feeling, however, may never achieve it. After talking with pro surfers about this I understand what a hard pill to swallow it must be, knowing that they will be seeking a crown in which they may never obtain. I am beginning to empathize more and more why these surfers become so emotional win or lose as this feeling of success is such a huge weight in which they hold.
Joey Buran has produced a biographical DVD called, “Beyond the Dream”. In his movie he talks about the joy of reaching his lifelong goal of winning the pipeline masters in Hawaii, possibly the most sort after competition trophy in professional surfing. Buran describes the feeling of achieving this all-time dream. However, within minutes of receiving his trophy the rain came down and people fled to their homes to find shelter. Joey was left standing on the beach with his trophy and this amazing sense of hopelessness filled him. At the top of the world in his career he felt so empty and realised everything he had lived and worked for meant nothing in the broader scheme of things.
I believe it is key to have that feeling of hope and purpose come from life in Christ rather than from sport, career or even people. All these things will pass away one day and let you down, however, Christ said, ‘.......I come to give life and life to the fullest’. ( John 10:10)
So I challenge you, what are you living for?
Remember when you reach you dream, you will still lose something: your dream.